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I was also impressed by the fact that Paraguay has two official languages: Guaraní and Spanish. Additionally, Guaraní, the indigenous language, is alive and well. Everyone speaks it, as it is taught in school. Here in Asuncion, the capital, people use a mix of Spanish and Guaraní. I am told that in the interior people often speak almost exclusively Guaraní! I have learned a few words so far, but many seem to believe the indigenous language too complicated for one to pick up later in life. I doubt that is true, but concede that perhaps its completely uneuropean structure would prove more difficult for one familiar with European languages to learn at a later stage in life. I do not plan on studying it because it would not serve me in any other region but this (parts of Bolivia and all of Paraguay). But still I am glad to see the continued preservation of one of the languages of a brutally colonized people.
The political scene in Asuncion seems to be, from what I know at this early stage, rather defeated. My friend Carlos, who has been helping me look at bikes, is a Mormon, libertarian (of all things) and was cheated out of being "President" of his barrio by some lady that bought all the votes. He has some progressive ideas, but is not a revolutionary. I have yet to go to the party office of Patria Libre. I should try today; however, there will probably be no one there, as it is Saturday.
La Señora Domínguez, friend, store owner, and dope lady, has hopes of running for political office some day. She too is progressive, but missing an ideology. I would like to check out the scene of the undercity. The Undercity is what I call the barrios of carton houses that line the city just in front of the Rio Paraguayo. I wonder what kind of mindset is permeating there. The owners and those that run the hotel are from the middle class and I have had them warn me not to go to the undercity because they will rob me. I have also been told that the people that live in the undercity like it there and do not want to work. In addition, "those people" don't have to pay taxes and the city wants to clear them out. I would like to explore the place and politics for myself.
01-04-04
I went to the Rio today and observed that
the "government palace" is green, cut, trim, and well cared for,
while just over the wall to the right and left is abject poverty in the undercity.
What contradiction. Overflowing wealth / People dying of hunger.
I am now staying with a family that lives in the undercity of Asuncion. They have a small storefront restaurant in the centro, which is how I met them. I sat down ordered some food. The Señora mentioned that there are a lot of Brasileros in town. I remarked with a smile, "Señora, I'm not Brasilian." She was surprised, and asked where I was from. From there I chatted with them, the whole family, for the rest of the afternoon. I mentioned I was looking for a bike and staying in a hotel. The next day they helped me look for bikes and the following day invited me to live at their house. I am still blown away by the kindness I encounter.
They work extremely hard everyday. The mother along with her oldest son Javier run the restaurant. The younger son, Christian, works in an office and goes to school at the same time at the local University.
I enjoy this place. It smiles. The family's dwelling here in the undercity is modest but made of stone, which is better than many of the houses of the undercity. Javier told me that before the barrio that they live in was all carton houses, but now there are many more of stone.
I am sleeping in Christian's room on a spare bed. Their cousin lent us a folding bed frame, mattress, and sheets. The whole family offers such hospitality.
I breakfast daily with another cousin that
lives across the street and runs a store out of his house. I was invited and
attempted to go fishing with the grandfather one day but it turned out to
be too hot and the guy that has the boat didn't show up. I was told that the
grandmother has Alzheimer's disease, but I believe she is suffering from something
else in addition, as she is unable to communicate, unable to feed, bathe,
or relief herself. She can't move. Alzheimer's disease is usually marked by
loss of memory, degeneration of particular brain cells, and can be accompanied
by hallucinations and senile dementia. This poor old lady is practically a
vegetable. The whole family pitches in to take care of her in addition to
the family business. I am tired of the bullshit that people say about the
poor, that they don't want to work and they have it good. It is the propaganda
of the ruling class. Those who are benefiting the most from the current situation
would like to point the finger at the impoverished and attempt to draw parallel
lines that obviously cross. So many of the people absorb this subjective analysis,
as it is beamed out all over the world on that little box, that medium with
the utmost power; the power to convince even the victim of their own culpability.
The people must be privy to social remedies that do not have a corporate sponsor.
To prop up life with only the digits, joints, and limbs is to construct a flimsy existence. Why not beat with more than two ventricles.
